Sorbetto 2.0 + more toile tribulations...

Though I had my doubts, I'm happy to report that I've refined the fit of the new version of Sorbetto to something that pleases me quite a lot.  It was not a process without difficulty and dejection, though. I've recently made peace with the fact that it just takes me a while to get fit worked out. 

Starting to collect vintage and fancy 100% cotton sheets at thrift stores has made me more patient in the process... because I always have a lot of fabric on hand for toiles or muslins... and I'm less attached to whether they turn out to be wearable or not. Sometimes I end up with a great addition to my wardrobe... other times, it's quite liberating to just give up on something, knowing that you gave fitting the old college try.  Here are a couple that are headed that way.

The Lisel Everyday Skirt had insurmountable fitting issues for my shape. I'm giving the pattern away to a friend and giving up on partially elasticized waistbands with my ridiculously pear-shaped body.  If you have slim hips, or your are more "apple" shaped, this is a very well-designed and cool pattern.  I learned a lot from sewing it, even if it's not right for my figure. 

If you are have said figure variations and are curious about a half-elastic waist, but don't want to spring for a fancy pattern, this tutorial is good too.  But not for my big bum.  I was hoping a "real pattern" would fix my woes, but it's actually just a style that is not going to work for my shape, for a myriad of reasons I don't really want to talk about because it just makes me feel gross about my body and sewing should do the opposite.  So, buh-bye to half-elasticated dreams. 

The shell is my first attempt at Colette's latest version of Sorbetto.  I tried a toile of the sleeved version, eliminating the pleat so I could show off the giant roses on this vintage sheet... but the fitting was horrid. The grace with which I was able to grade between the size of my bust and hips is lost on the new version because my hip size is the smallest size of the plus sized version and my bust is right in the middle of the 0-16 size block. I also really need that pleat to be stitched at the top and open at the bottom to give the nice swingy fit that was so flattering about the first one I made.

Note:  This is the most amazing blog comparing the fit of the two versions.  

My first try with the new version was graded between 12 and 16 with the pleat eliminated.  It ended up being huge in the upper part and a bit snug in the bottom half with tons of extra fabric around the armpit with the sleeves.  I tried to salvage it by eliminating the sleeves, but the armholes were too low.  Also the bust darts that were previously too high on the 2011 version are now laughably low.  Like 2" below the apex of my bust. 

I've learned through trial and error, that too high is better than too low. 

Having spent a lot of sewing time on these two unwearable gems, I was feeling pretty dejected... but after I looked at the photo of my failure, I realized that the rose sheet fabric made a really cute top and I had enough left to give it another try, so I was re-inspired to try fixing some fit issues with the new Sorbetto pattern.

Second time around, I graded between a 10 up top and a little over a 16 at the bottom & included the pleat.  I read a lot of blogs about Sorbetto fitting issues while I was recovering from the disappointment of my first one... and in this research, I discovered the idea of inverting the pleat and leaving it unstitched.  

Bust darts were still super saggy and there was a weird bit of bagginess on the back of the neckline.  I added little tiny neck darts in the back and did some research on raising the apex of a bust dart for version 3. This Melly Sews tutorial was super-helpful. Just cut the dart part out of the pattern, raise or lower as needed, grade the lines back into the side seam and add back in some paper where you cut the original dart out. Boom!  No more saggy bust.

I tested the newly positions darts out on a third version.  No more rose sheets this time. I will actually wear the 2nd rose one, saggy bust darts and all, so I thought I'd try a different fabric.  I went with something from my deep stash... a bit of vintage mercerized cotton.  I think it's early 60s and the Sorbetto is inspired by that same time period, so I thought they would go together nicely.  In my book, I wasn't wrong.

I'll have pictures wearing it soon enough, since we're in the thick of Me-Made May  Right now, I just want to note the inverted pleat, stitched down about 1" and the back neck darts.

This make took about 1 1/8th yards of 40" wide fabric, with enough to make the self-binding too. I did have to cut the back in two pieces along the selvage edge (with a 1/2" extra for seam allowance) and stitch the back together, as there wasn't enough length to cut both pieces on the fold.  The print isn't matched, but it's small and busy enough that is doesn't bother me.  That cut would also work for a solid, but could be hard on a larger print... 1.5 yards would be better, or a wider fabric.

I'm looking forward to making more Sorbettos and experimenting with how the pattern can be used as a block or a starting-off point for other creations.

As such, I'm adding it to my Make Nine 2018.  I'm changing the focus of my Make Nine since fitting is such a tough challenge for me.  I want to make 9 patterns into TNT patterns.

Madeline Slip
Sorbetto
Dottie Angel Frock

are well on their way.

I also want to make some adjustments to the neckline on my favorite New Look 6305.

I want to see if I can get a good fit so I can make a few versions of the Three's A Charm Jacket & the Hazel Dress.

I bought the pattern for Olive Knits Stillwater cardigan too. It's going to be part of my #summerofbasics in black soy silk.  I want to make it shorter than the example photos - so it comes just to my natural waist. I can see it becoming a go-to in multiple colors and weights of yarn, for a short-waisted sweater that is just right to wear with a lot of me-made dresses.

I also want to perfect a skirt pattern for my new size... and it sure-as-heck will not be including elastic... but I'm not that into zippers right now.  I'm thinking of some type of Brumby/Kelly mash-up with the a-line version of Brumby and the button front style of Kelly.

That leaves one more thing to arise.  I think maybe it will be the Anabelle Slip... not really sure right now.  I've also been fantasizing about a peplum top for a while... and recently discovered a cute + free one, thanks to checking out everyone's Me Made makes on Instagram

Come June, I'll try to pin down and re-write my Make Nine.  I'm also staying open to deals that are coming from a lot of the indie pattern companies during the last week of Me Made May - if one of my top covets comes up... I might splurge on a new pattern or two.

Overall, feeling inspired, patient, and motivated by Me Made May so far... which is really the idea, right?! :)