The dress and yoke are all ready to be joined together tomorrow evening. The yoke was really fun to make and I learned a lot about the process for my next iteration with the cotton/linen fabric. I feel confident and happy that I have taken the time to work with the muslin process to make something I really like in the end.
I decided to fully line the yoke, so I cut plain white muslin for the lining and cut the facing pattern from interfacing to fuse to the white lining. I also used interfacing on the navy blue linen collar and graded the seams. I read a tutorial on curves for scallops, which inspired me to cut the seam allowance very tight instead of notching. I graded the seam with the interfacing so it wasn't too thick.
The lining worked well and I pinked the edges so they wouldn't fray. I found these vintage pinking shears at a thrift store in Grants Pass on a trip to visit my father-in-law. They are dreamy! They cut through multiple layers of fabric like butter and make a cute and utilitarian finished edge that I much prefer to the look of serging.
While we are on the subject of wonderful vintage sewing tools, I've wanted to take a moment to praise these hams, which make pressing hard-to-reach places much easier. Once upon a time, I had a little sleeve board, but that was many moves ago... perhaps I will replace it - but in the meantime, these are great. My mother-in-law gave them to me from her sewing things before she passed away. They are wool-covered and they have a little tag that says "Made in Portland, Ore." It always makes me happy to use things that she gave me. I think it would make her happy too, to know that they are getting used.
Here is the big ham in action to press the sleeve hem. It also came in handy for pressing the underarm as it attached to the bodice/skirt pieces.
Another change, besides fully lining the yoke, was that I decided to sew the button holes and buttons on before attaching it to the rest of the dress, as the pattern suggests. It seemed easier to do when you didn't have a whole dress floating around you and I thought it would be good to have the buttons safely buttoned in place first, so I knew they were positioned just as I wanted them. So, I set out to mark the button holes.
I used my favorite trick to cut the button holes safely, by putting a straight pin in to stop the seam ripper. I learned that from my mother when I was a little girl and it's a clever little trick that is so simple and effective. It always makes me smile.
Wardrobe Architect, all about designing your own wardrobe. This is something I have been thinking about a great deal lately & one reason that I have been inspired to practice sewing for myself again. I look forward to learning and sharing more about this in future posts. Bon soir! <3